South - Eastern Cape: Robberg Peninsula

R O B B E R G
Na t u r e a n d Ma r i n e P r o t e c t e d A r e a

The Robberg peninsula is a national monument, Nature reserve and Marine protected area that lies about 8km south of Plettenberg Bay - a prestigious coastal resort on South Africas’ famous Garden Route.

The ecology of the Robberg Peninsula is similar to that of other rock headlands on this coastline and it presents a fine example of how plants and animals adapt to the interacting influences of land and sea.

1. Life in the Stone Ages: Nelson Bay Cave.

Important Middle and Later Stone Age archaeological site. First occupied 120 000 years ago when the sea level dropped. Grasslands stretched beyond the southern horizon during last Ice Age when sea levels were lower. Giant Cape horse; giant buffalo and giant hartebeest used to graze here. They became extinct about 10 000 years ago. There are several other cave and open sites with evidence of Stone Age occupation on the peninsula. There are detailed interpretation facilities at Nelson Bay Cave.

2. First recorded European habitation in South Africa.

In 1630 The Sao Goncalo a Portuguese vessel, was wrecked here. The survivors camped on the beach for about nine months while they built two small boats. Despite being wrecked again, some managed to reach Portugal. The remains of the Athena a modern fishing trawler which sank nearby, are still visible.

3. First evidence of the modern South African coastline.

Robberg’s rocks date back to the early Cretaceous period (110 -130 million years ago) and the earliest break-up of Gondwanaland - a prehistoric super continent that split up into latter-day South America, Africa, Antarctica, India and Australia about 120 million years ago. The rocks at Robberg were deposited in the bed of this new African sea.

4. Look out, for spoor of the Western Cape’s smallest antelope, the blue duiker.

Classified rare in the Red Data Book, these shy
buck are largely confined to evergreen thicket.
At the shoulder, adult males are almost as tall as a
standard 30cm ruler. They feed on fallen leaves,
flowers, fruit and young shoots.

5. Listen for the bark of Cape Fur seals.

Hundreds of seals gather on the rocks between
anonkoelgat and Grasnek. Adult bulls can be 2.1m
long and weigh up to 350kg. Competition between
fishermen and seals for fish has posed difficult
challenges for South African conservationists: how
can their different needs be reconciled? Seal
harvesting has been suspended since 1990.

6. Keep your eyes skinned for dolphins and wales.

Two species of inshore dolphin (humpback and
bottlenose) can often be seen from the Robberg
Peninsula. Between May and November, Southern
right whales come here from the Antarctic region to
calve and mate. Humpbac whales – another
Antarctic species - also visit these waters. Bryde’s
whales are year around residents. Plettenberg Bay
was previously one of 16 shore - based whaling
stations on the South African coast. South Africa
outlawed all whaling in its waters by 1980.

7. Montane fynbos adapted to harsh coastal conditions.
Plants here are adapted to “pruning” by wind –
driven salt spray, shallow soils and a steep, well –
drained slope.

8. Look out for Southern Ocean seabirds.

In winter, particUlarly dUring storms, sea birds that
breed on Sub – Antarctic islands such as Marion
Island may be spotted from Robberg.
Recorded sightings include shy albatross,
broadbilled prion and Sub - Antarctic skua. White
chinned petrel and sooty shearwater can be
expected throughout the year.

9. Point Shack.

A recently renovated stone hut that has been a
popular fishing spot since the 1940’s. It is now
available for overnight fishing and offers basic
facilities.

10. Cape Seal Lighthouse

At 146m above sea level, this is the highest
navigational light on the South African coast. Its
solar - powered rotating beam has a range of about
27km. Built in 1950.

11. T8e Rocky shore: life in a spin cycle.
The rocky intertidal Zone is divided into five distinct
vertical Zones. Each is occupied by plants and
animals with differing abilities to withstand exposure
to air and the heating and drying effects of the sun.
Periwinkles occupy the highest Zone, which is
wetted by the sea at high spring tide only. Moving
seawards, the other tidal levels are marked by the
presence of barnacles, mussels, limpets and
red bait respectively. Seaweeds are common below
the neap highwater mark. Best explored during a
low spring tide.

12. Danger!

Do not take any shortcuts, especially below the
Path. Keep strictly to the trail.

13. Candelabra flowers

These bulbs produce spectacular crimson flowers
between February and April.

14. Feeding Plettenberg Bay with sand

The Witsand sand dune is one of seven climbing -
falling dunes on the Cape coast.
The island traps sand driven ashore from the North
- westerly wind and currents. Dry sand is then
blown upwards for about 80m before sliding into Plettenberg Bay. Alien plants and other pioneer species threaten to “throttle” this sensitive, disturbed system.

15 Reefs: Home to the sex - changing roman.

The submerged rocks surrounding the island offer food and shelter to reef fish. Most of them are slow – growing, long - life species that take several years to reach sexual maturity. Some, like the Roman,
change sex as they develop. Romans start life as females. They become males when large enough to compete for their own harems. Many females can lose a breeding opportunity if “their” male is caught. Territorial reef fish that reverse their sexes are
therefore very vulnerable in heavily - fished areas.

16. Seagull nursery.

The breeding success of kelp gulls has improved greatly since boardwalks were laid to rehabilitate
disturbed areas and keep humans out of their nesting area.

17. Beware! Rip current.

A strong, seaward - moving current caused when waves are parallel to shore. This is very dangerous
for swimmers.

The sandy inter - tidal Zone: nature’s incredible cleansing service.

Because of the moving sand, plants are unable to take root on sandy beaches. This means that grazers (plant feeders) are absent. This is why all other beach animals have to rely on imported food to survive. Animals feed either by filtering sea water for plankton and organic particles (sand mussels),
scavenging (plough snails) or hunting (the three spot swimming crab). Microscopic organisms living in wet sand also eat and recycle organic material in surf.

R O B B E R G

Fishing spots

One can get with a vehicle to the parking area and
from this point everybody walks (hurts).

Warning: If you are planning to go fishing at The
Point, a fair level of fitness is required.

The distance from the car park area to the Point is
Approximately 4.2km and some parts of the walk a
fairly steep. The way to The Point is not the difficult
part, the way back from there is.
Take lots of drinking water with you, as the only
drinking water can be found at the Fountain and
only if you know where exactly to look for it. Day
fishing at the Point or Die Eiland, the sun and the
“magic” of the sea water spraying on you, very often
may result in dehydration. I have seen above
average fit individuals to get “wooden” legs on the
way back from the Point, after a day fishing.

Well known deep water spots at Robberg are:

- Kanonkoeelsgat;
- The Point;
- Die Eiland

and these spots have produced catches of:

- Garrick;
- Yellowtail;
- White musselcracker;
- Kob;

in the past.

Very often you will know that the garrick is around, only after you walk to The Point and find more than 10-12 local fishermen stuck in the early hours of the morning at strategic points along the ledges, all using live bait (karanteen) and catching garrick. You may use a plug and may be successful, but my advice is to observe, exactly what the local experts are doing and replicate.

Target species: Garrick

South African record: 32.2kg

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Lichia amia (Smith No. 210.33)
COMMON NAMES: Garrick, leervis

DISTRIBUTION OF SPECIES: From the Mediterranean Sea (including Portugal), along the west African coast (especially Mauritania), to the south and east coasts of southern Africa (Smith and eemstra 1986)H
DISTRIBUTION OF STOCK: From Cape Point to Cape Vidal (van der Elst et al. 1993)
HABITAT ADULTS: Found in nearshore surface waters, varying from the surf zone to a depth of 50m (van der Elst 1988, Smith and Heemstra 1986) UVENILES: Common in SEC and SWC estuaries and coastal J shallows (van der Elst et al. 1993)

MIGRATION: Annually, during winter, adults migrate to KZN waters they return to Cape waters (van der Elst 1988)

FISHERY: Highly sought after as a recreational trophy fish by shore anglers, skiboat anglers and spearfishers, especially during the short season in KZN, but makes up a relatively small percentage of the total catch of these sectors (van der Elst et al. 1993)
CURRENT REGULATIONS
AG LIMIT: 5 person day
RESEARCH PRIORITIES
CATEGORY: Recreational List -1-1
B
MINIMUM SIZE: 70cmTL
CLOSED SEASON: None EFFECTIVE MARINE RESERVES: Probably none due to migratory behaviour OTHER REGULATIONS: No sale FREQUENCY OF ATTAINING DBL: Unknown

MANAGEMENT CONSIDERATIONS
Garrick is a prime recreational angling species and trophy fish that should be managed to attain a large size and not a large tonnage of landings. Although it appears as if the stock status of garrick is currently sound, a review of these findings and calculation of biological reference points is needed.
Estuarine protected areas in the SEC and SWC, which provide important nursery areas for garrick,should be established.

Garrick is one of the finest game fish in South African waters. They feed mostly on karanteen, shad, makarel, mullet and they are not known to take dead bait. During the sardine run, garrick may be caught on sardine fillet or whole sardine. Garrick also may be caught on plugs.


With the invention of the none return sliding clip, which allows them to reach with a cast fairly deep, many anglers are targeting garrick with a live bait, which they slide on the line until it reaches the ring attached above the sinker. The use of wire traces, when fishing for garrick is not recommended. Many anglers believe, that the garrick can sense the wire trace and leave the bait.

The garrick has an extremely distinctive way of picking up bait. When he picks the live bait one can fill 2 or 3 sharp tags, before it start moving away with the bait. If you strike during the time when the garrick start moving away with you bait, the chances are that you will loose the fish. The reason for this is that the garrick once it picks the live bait, descales the bait fish and then will only swallow the bait. If you strike too early, you will bring back only your descaled live bait. Many anglers believe that a count to 21 is necessary before you strike. I had a success on a count to 12 and I believe that that is sufficient for me. Some times after the first run the garrick will drop the bait and stop, only once its start running with the bait again, then one can strike. Heavy tackle is required for the successful capture of garrick, as they are strong fighters.

One of the most beautiful spots for garrick in South Africa, when the garrick are around:

Target species: Shad

South African record: 10.3kg
DISTRIBUTION OF SPECIES: World-wide in warm temperate-shelf waters (van der Elst 1976)
DISTRIBUTION OF STOCK: SA coastline, primarily from Cape Point to southern MOZ (van der Elst 1976)

HABITAT

ADULTS: Sandy and rocky substrata from shore down to 100m (van der Elst 1976)
JUVENILES: Shallow subtidal waters (< 20m deep) primarily in larger embayments in the SEC and SWC (van der Elst 1976, Smale 1984, Wallace et al. 1984a, Wallace et al. 1984b)

MIGRATION: Adults and 0+ juveniles migrate seasonally between the SWC and KZN passing through the SEC and TKI. It is both an alimental and gametic migration with shad feeding largely on sardines (Sardinops sagax) and spawning occurring in warmer KZN waters. Adults are common during the summer and autumn months in Cape waters and during winter and spring in KZN (van der Elst 1976). The migration of 0+ juveniles precedes the migration of larger adults
FISHERY: Elf is the most important shore angling species caught in SWC, SEC, TKI and KZN (Brouwer et al.1997). It is important to recreational skiboat fishers in the SWC, SEC, TKI and KZN, but primarily used for bait by this sector. Elf are important to commercial skiboat fishers primarily in the SWC, especially in False Bay and Struis Bay (NMLS commercial data). Prior to new regulations promulgated in September 1998, elf were not allowed to be commercially exploited in KZN. Elf are also caught by the False Bay trek netters and are caught as a by-catch by the Vetch’s Pier seine netters in Durban (Lamberth et al. 1995a,b, Beckley and Fennessy 1996). SA lands about 0.2% of the global elf catch of 20 000 mt (FAO 1999)

CURRENT REGULATIONS
CATEGORY: Restricted List
BAG LIMIT: 5 person-1 day-1 (recreationals only)
MINIMUM SIZE: 30cm TL
CLOSED SEASON: 1st September to 30th November, both dates inclusive (applies to all fishers)
MANAGEMENT CONSIDERATIONS
Under the new regulations (September 1998) elf can be commercially exploited in KZN. This is almost certainly going to increase F on this species. Consideration should be given to de-commercialising elf throughout its distribution as this is primarily a recreational species.

The above information and photo are obtained from: www.ori.org.za

The shad is a predator and is equipped with a razor sharp teeth. It is believed that they do not grow much bigger than 10kg. Excellent eating, but do not freeze. Shad is most often caught on:

- sardines;
- fresh fillets;
- mackerel;
- chokka;
- live bait (karanteen);
- spoons;
Depending on the size of the fish in the area, wire traces on the hooks are recommended, although if 0.75mm line is used, you may land most of the Juvenal fish, provided that a long shank hooks are used. It is advisable for one to use long baits when fishing for shad.
It is recommended that hooks from 4/0 to 8/0 are used. The use of shad bung is one of the most popular traces used in South Africa.


Total trace length of from the hook to the 3 way swivel = 50cm.
Piano wire = 10-15 cm.
Total trace length for the sinker = 60cm.

Target species: White Steenbras

DISTRIBUTION OF SPECIES: SA endemic found from the Orange River mouth to KZN

DISTRIBUTION OF STOCK: North of Cape Columbine (St Helena Bay to Orange River) to
Bashee River mouth TKI (Bennett 1993a)

HABITAT

ADULTS: Individuals >650mm extend their range into deeper water (<25 m) (Bennett 1993b).
A large proportion of these mature fish may be concentrated in the SWC

JUVENILES: 0+ juveniles are estuarine dependent for their first year of life but may remain for 2 years or more. Adolescents (1-5 years, < 650 mm) inhabit the surf-zones of sandy and mixed shores where they are fairly resident (Bennett 1993b)

MIGRATION: Annual spawning migration commencing in Autumn, northwards and eastwards to the northern SEC and TKI coasts in time for late winter spawning. Return southwards by late summer (Bennett 1993b)

FISHERY: Exploited by recreational shore anglers throughout its range. Nationally, 6% of targeting is directed against this species. On a regional basis targeting is as follows - WC 4%, SC 17%, EC 9% and TKI 2% (Sauer and Erasmus 1996, Lamberth 1996, Brouwer 1997a, Mc Donald 1998, Mann and Fennessy 1998). Bennett (1993a) estimated this sector to be responsible for 75% of numbers and 50% of the mass of the total catch of this species.
Lamberth (1996) estimated an annual SWC catch of 39 000 fish weighing 86 t for the years 1994-1996. On the whole this fishery is responsible for almost the entire catch of immature adolescents.
Only taken as an incidental catch by commercial and recreational boats.
Beach seines responsible for 25% of normal beach-seine and sinking “Russman” seine along the WC and SWC. Legal fishery confined to False Bay where up to ± 20 t or 4 700 fish are landed annually. Normal seines catch adolescent and mature fish whereas the “Russman” fishery catches mostly mature, sexually active adults (Bennett 1993a, Lamberth 1994).
Sixth most frequently reported by-catch species caught in the WC gill-net fishery but less than 1% of monitored catches by mass and by number (Hutchings and Lamberth 1998.
RECREATIONAL SHORE ANGLING: Based on angler club records there has been a 90%
decrease in CPUE from 6 fish.100h-1 in 1968 to 0.7 fish.100h-1 in 1990 (Bennett 1993a). The SWC linefish survey recorded 0.9 fish.100h-1 during 1994-96 as opposed to 2.29 fish.100h-1 during the period 1971-84, representing a 61% decrease over a ten year period (Bennett et al.1994, Lamberth 1996). There was an increase in CPUE in the De Hoop Marine Reserve from 0-2 fish.100h-1 at the time of declaration in 1986 to more than 5 fish.100h-1 during the period 1988 to 1995 (C. Attwood, MCM, Unpubl. data). Since then, there has been a small but noticeable decrease to 3-4 fish.100h-1, probably reflecting the overall stock decline experienced by this species. Catch frequencies have declined by almost an order of magnitude over the last decade. During 1971-84, 90% of angler outings yielded zero, and 5.2% one fish as opposed to 97% and 2.3% for 1994-96 (Bennett et al. 1994, Lamberth 1996).
TRENDS IN CATCH COMPOSITION:
RECREATIONAL SHORE ANGLING: Became important in shore-anglers catches in the early
1960s where they provided 30% of anglers’ catches in the SWC (Bennett 1993a). Its’
importance grew to 43% in the late 1970s but thereafter experienced a sustained decline until 1990-91 where it contributed only 8% of the catch by mass. By 1994-96 white steenbras comprised only 0.6% of the mass and 4% of the numbers of the total catch (Lamberth 1996).
MANAGEMENT CONSIDERATIONS
The white steenbras stock has collapsed and drastic management measures need to be
implemented as a matter of urgency in order to rebuild the stock.

Information and picture obtained from: www.ori.org.za

The White Steenbras is a very popular angling fish with rock and surf, bait and estuary fishermen.

The raging debate of who is responsible for the diminishing stock of this specific specie between, recreational angles, commercial fishermen and supporters of the theory that the main reason for the decrease in stock is the increased pollution of the ocean and estuaries, if the above facts are taken into account, points in the direction of the recreational anglers.

White stenbraas are most abundant in summer in the Southern Cape and in winter in the Transkei and Natal.

The white steenbras feed on animals in the sand such as:
- sand prawn;
- crabs;
- blood worm and wander worm;
- white mussels;

In our days it is widely believed and accepted by all anglers that the white stenbraas are timid feeders. All that said about them, I find amusing passage from the book Strike, which was generously pointed out to me by a friend of mine:

“…Some years ago my dad and I went to Hartenbosch to fish for red steenbras and kob, which were fairly plentiful at the time. Strolling along the beach we found an old fellow fishing with very crude tackle, namely a very thick hand line, baling wire traces and enormous 10/0 hooks. His bait consisted of some seed potatoes, a piece of sheep’s’ lever, a rotten sea cat, and some smelly beef stake.

My dad watched carefully as the old fellow put a different kind of bait on each of six hooks, and then case his heavy line into the sea. Casually my dad asked what he was trying for. “White steenbas” replied the old chap. “I have heard there are such big ones around here and I thought I will come and try for one.”

“But surely you don’t expect to catch a fastidious white steenbras on that stuff you’ve put on your hook?” my dad remarked. “And why not?” retorted the old chap.

“Well” said Dad. “because white steenbras are rather choosy. But if you don’t mind, take these white mussels, bait one of your hooks with it, then remove all your others hooks, and see what happens.”, whereupon Dad gave him a handful of mussels.
“Thanks very much, my friend.”, said the old chap, as he accepted the mussels. “I shall certainly put some of these on one of the hooks, but I think I shall leave the other five hooks as they are. One never knows.” He promptly hauled in his line, removed some sheep’s lever and substituted some of the white mussel, leaving a mixed collection of weird baits on the other hooks. He once again rolled up his trouser legs, briskly swung the heavy line and heaved it about 20 paces into a sand gully. Dad and I selected another spot about 50 paces away further along, tackled up and preceded to fish. About 10 minutes passed, and then we suddenly saw the old man hauling in his line with great vigour. In less time that it takes to tell about it, he hauled out an enormous white steenbras. We went up to him and congratulated him on his magnificent catch, and dad could not resist the temptation to say: “Well, old chap, you see! If I had not given you those mussels, you would never have had that splendid fish.” “Yes, my friend.”, replied the old man. “That may be so, but…you see…I did not catch it on white mussel at all. Oh no!” Incredulously my dad and I looked at the old mans tackle, and could not fail to notice that the one hook was still full of white mussel bait. “But on what did you take that fish then?”, my dad asked quite perplexed.
“Seed potato, my friend! Seed potato.” replied the old man as it if were everyday occurrence to hook white steenbras on such unusual bait…”

So... whatever you do remember: “Seed potato, my friend! Seed potato.”

It is beleived that the white steenbras feed during the day time and night, if at all, with best catches during the early mornings before sunrise and late afternoons and evenings. It is also believed that they feed well during an incoming tide off beaches.

I use medium tackle when fishing in the sea, as I had bad experience of loosing a steamer of a fish on a light tackle, and there was nothing I can do about it, since that early evening I refuse to target white stenbraas on a light tackle.

I use standard sliding sinker with all nylon trace, and very often if I fish with long stripe with chokka combined with white mussel, I will use 2 hooks pointing in the same direction, one above the other. Size of hooks - from 3/0 to 5/0.

My favorite spot for white steenbras in the entire world:



Once they are hooked, they rush off with enormous speed and depending on the size of the fish they can take quite a lot of line from your reel. Setting the hook in the mouth of a white steenbras can be tricky, as they have hard bonny jaws and one needs to be very careful (if using "J" hooks)when to strike. Untimely strike with fairly big fish, while the fish is running away, may result in broken line and lost fish. Inappropriately set hook may result in a very good run and all of sudden - nothing, no fish, no bait, only the naked hook - one of the most sickening feelings for an angler. Many anglers have reported such experiences.
When fishing for white steenbras, I prefer using circle hooks - no strike, just point the rod in the direction of the running fish and slightly tighten the drag - guaranteed hit in the corner of the mouth. What a beautiful ancient hooking device:

It is common occurrence that white steenbras are caught when they lasso themselves on your sinker line, or your hook line with the line tangled around their heads and going through their gills. Many anglers believe that the white steenbras attacks your sinker, which resembles burrowing crab in the sand. 13kg white steenbras caught in the above described way.

Target species: White Mussle Cracker

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Sparodon durbanensis
COMMON NAMES: White musselcracker

Image obtained from: www.ori.org.za

DISTRIBUTION OF SPECIES:
Endemic, Cape Point (SWC) to Tugela (KZN)
HABITAT
ADULTS: High profile, inshore reefs doJUVENILES: Tidal pools, gullies and
shallow subtidal reefs <12m wn to 20m
MIGRATION
To date 24(2.8%) of the 874 tagged white mussel cracker have been recaptured. Juveniles <600mm TL are extremely resident, while adults appear to undertake an annual winter spawning migration, moving in a north-easterly direction towards KZN (Sedgwick's/ORI/WWF Tagging Programme). Reduced abundance in northern TKI and KZN waters during summer months suggest adults return to Cape waters on completion of spawning
MANAGEMENT CONSIDERATIONS
White mussel cracker are an extremely important trophy fish for both the recreational shore fishery and spear fishery. Their large size, slow growth, late maturity and longevity make this species extremely susceptible to overfishing and a conservative management strategy should be adopted
The above information is obtained from: www.ori.org.za
The White Mussel Cracker is found in rocky areas with a sandy bottom and white working water. They can also be found occasionally in clear water, but only during the early mornings or late afternoons as these fish tend to be shy feeders. The White Mussel Cracker feeds mainly on Crab, Black Mussel, Crayfish, Redbait, Shrimp and Prawn. They do feed on sardine depending on the abundance of bait in the area and may take live/dead bait of karanteen.
They move in shoals and it seems they feed in pairs closer to the waters edge. The White Mussel Cracker is a strong fighter, and considered to be a dirty fighter at that. Once hooked he will head straight for cover, either within rocks or whatever structure he can find.
Tackle to consider should be strong and up to the task of pulling him away from the rocks and gullies. A good reel with a good drag and a 12 to 14 foot Rod is essential. Lines should be between 0.45 to 0.55mm with a strong leader of around 0.7 or 0.8mm. Other terminal tackle like hooks and swivels should be strong as well. A good strong chemically sharpened hook is a must as these fish have crushing teeth and will smash a weak hook to pieces with one slam of it's powerful jaws.

Your baits should look as natural as possible and use a running trace as they are shy feeders and will leave your bait if they feel any resistance, they normally take the bait and run to the open sea or head for the rocks hence the sharp hook although they sometimes come forward and if this happens you will have to reel quickly and set the hook but do not strike too hard as this might pull the hook right out of it’s mouth.

The preferred trace to use is as follows: An 8/0 hook (preferably a chemically sharpened), 0.8mm clear trace line. +/- 700mm (low water) or 900mm (high water), a power swivel, bead and ball sinker (3 or 4 oz). (See Trace Below)
The Baits:

Sand Crab:

There are two good ways of using sand Crab as bait. One of them is by pushing the hook through the crab and ensuring it is firmly embedded in the crab, and the other is to attach the hook onto the back of the crab either by using a rubber band, cotton or superglue.
Guide your hook through the crab just behind the legs, and push it through until it comes out on the other side just behind the legs again.
Using Glue:
Wipe the top of the crab dry using a clean rag. Ensure that the crab shell is clean and dry so that the glue can hold firmly. Then using a small piece of foam, thread the hook through the foam so the foam sits on the shank of the hook.

Smear a bit of Superglue onto the foam behind the Shank.

Attach the foam to the crab shell as indicated above.

Using Mussel:

Again there are two ways of attaching a mussel to your hook. One of them is by pushing the hook through the shell of the mussel and the other is to split the mussel and embed the hook within the mussel.
Using a sharp pointed knife, gently make a hole on one side of the mussel. You can achieve this by swiveling the knife in a drilling fashion. Make a second hole on the other side of the mussel at the point where the hook would emerge.
Using a pliers, pull the hook through the second hole until the hook is proud. Using ghost cotton, wrap the mussel tight ensuring it is firm and closed.

Opening the Mussel:

Using your knife split the mussel revealing the inside flesh. Place your hook inside the mussel and then close the mussel.

Using cotton bind the mussel tightly ensuring the the hook is firm and the hook remains proud.

Fish Species used for live bait for kob:

Strepie / Karanteen
(Sarpa salpa)

Image obtained from www.ori.org.za

These beautiful little fish (10 – 20 cm in length), with their characteristic horizontal golden stripes are found in summer almost everywhere in calm water where plenty of marine vegetation occurs. They are found in gullies.

TACKLE

Light rod and reel may be used. Strepies are nibblers and therefore very small hooks should be used. (see sketch of rig).

BAIT
Small to medium size musselworms are the most effective bait. Strepies don’t like the musselworm’s rather hard head, so don’t use it. Thread a piece of worm on to fill the hook. Because the bait is firm, several strepies may be caught before it is necessary to rebait. Thin strips of redbait, white mussel, sardine or the flesh of sharks may also be used.
HOW TO CATCH THE STREPIE
You need to do some pre-baiting by dropping small bits of bait into the water. A tin of sardine mince (from old bait) may be used successfully. Fine bits of redbait, mussels or the flesh of sharks may also be used. You can actually see how the shoal of fish rises to the surface to greedily pick up the bait.
When the slight tugs start, allow the strepie to pull the tip of the rod somewhat down before striking lightly. If you miss, just wait a moment, for the tugs will start almost immediately and continue till the hook is empty or the fish hooked. Strepies are lively fighters, so don’t use force when playing them. The best time is when the gully gets foamy with the pushing tide.

The Southern Mullet:


Image obtained from www.south-african-game-reserves.com

The Southern Mullet is a fairly common salt water fish species and often occurs in dense shoals in estuaries, along sandy beaches and near or around rocky areas. The Southern Mullet can tolerate low salinities which is why they are often found in estuaries and up rivers. They use these places as nursery grounds for the younger Southern Mullet which can attain about 45 to 50 centimetres. Southern Mullet are often found in shallow water and casting your bait at them is very tempting. Southern Mullet usually feed on microscopic plant organisms. The Harder (Southern Mullet) is the most common Mullet species within its distribution, which is from East London, all around the coast, up until and into Namibia.

How to catch the The South African Southern Mullet
It is a difficult challenge to catch any of the Mullet species of South Africa with rod and reel in hand. The best and easiest way to catch the Southern Mullet is with any type of throw net. This is the best option of catching a Southern Mullet (Harder) for bait.

However; many anglers do not possess throw net and are not familiar of how is to be used. If you are a salt water angler looking to catch a Southern Mullet with rod and reel, and use it as live bait, there are a few key aspects you need to take into account.

First of all you need to locate the Mullet species.
After you locate the Mullet, you need to do some pre-baiting (chumming) by dropping small bits of bait into the water. A tin of sardine mince (from old bait) may be used successfully. Many anglers will also pre-bait with thinly chopped sardine mince, anchovy oil, good measure of sand, all compacted into a sand balls, which are thrown in the intended fishing area.

Float, field with bait is strongly recommended.



The container is filled with small cuts of sardine and some anchovy oil is socked onto the float placed inside the container. In this way constant, slaw release of bits of sardine and scent from the anchovy oil, is assured trough the holes in the container.

On the hooks (use the smallest hooks possible) you may place some small pieces of sardine or you can try different fleshy baits. It is important to make sure that you float is floating right in front of the fish.

If you can't manage to get the Mullet to bite, wait a while and then try fishing for them at dusk or dawn.

Chumming when fishing for mullet definitely helps and in my opinion is a must.

How to keep you live bait alive on the sandy beach:

There is many different ways to keep your live bait alive and some involve purchase of specialised equipment and use of oxygen pumps.
The most simple and effective method is to use an ordinary black plastic bag and create your own small pool on the beach.

It is important to mention that you need to change the water in the pool frequently and if you are fishing during the day and under the shining sun, it is advisable to place a beach umbrella over the pool in order to protect the fish from the shining sun.

Some anglers make use of cooler boxes equipped with air pumps, run on 12volt batteries.

Target species, traces and bait: Kob

Name: KOB (Argyrosomus hololepidotus)
Other names: Kabeljou; Dagga salmon


SCIENTIFIC NAME: Argyrosomus thorpei2)
COMMON NAMES: Squaretail kob, half kob



SCIENTIFIC NAME: Umbrina canariensis)
COMMON NAMES: Baardman, belman, tasselfish



Kob grows to a massive size. Fish of between 30 and 40 kilograms are still being regularly caught. Kob is very good eating and its abundance has made it one of the top angling fish in the country.

1.84cm kob caught at Jeffrey’s Bay (2009)- Successfully released.




Capture
Kob (this family includes baardman and geelbek) are believed to be summer angling fish in the South Eastern Cape and it is believed that the best months for kob fishing in this specific area is the time between October and April.They can be caught from beaches, estuaries, rivers and rocks. Wire trace is not recommended for targeting of kob; however the hook trace shall be at least 0.75mm, if you are hoping to be able to land a fair size kob. The kob has large mouth and use of hooks of sizes from 6/0 to 8/0 is recommended. Very often a second hook is used in order to improve your hook up rate.

Best catches during day time are made when the water is discolored to a light brown (ginger beer water). Strong onshore winds such as the South-Easter causes disturbance of the sea bed and suspends sand in the water. Kob make use of their dorsal line and excellent sense of smell to truck their pray under these conditions. Sandy dirty water will not be a deterrent for a feeding kob as they have very strong gills and are perfectly suited for these conditions. Some experienced anglers believe that the dark colored water gives the kob a place to hide from the sun light.

River water colors the sea at the mouth of most of the tidal estuaries on an outgoing tide and especially after or during rain. Many anglers will fish with live bait, preferably mullet, karanteen under these conditions. A well presented chokka bait or a combination of chokka and sardine are known also to produce good results. Many anglers believe in the saying: “Bigger bait = bigger kob”.

The darkness of night is believed to be the most productive time for targeting kob by the surf anglers. Some of the most productive times are during early morning hours (before sunrise) and early evening (hours after sundown) to about 22h00. Some anglers believe that the time at about midnight is unproductive.
Off The Beach...
Under certain conditions you may be surprised with a kob during day time, but in general it is a waste of time to fish in clear water, with bright sun shining during the day. Presence of color in the water is extremely important required ingredient for daytime fishing. If you are fishing during the day, target spots where the waves create constantly foamy water. Such spots are sandbanks. The waves braking onto the sand banks will push constantly white foamy water onto the drop-of of the gully. One needs to be careful and observe that the wave action is not too strong on the sandbank, which will result in excessive amount of sand to be suspended in the water, which generally will put off fish like white steenbras from feeding in such conditions. It is very important to “read” the sea correctly.
In general the surf anglers look for the following formations in the sea, when selecting their fishing spots:
• gullies and;
• sandbanks;
• drop-offs;
These are the formations where most of the fish is to be found.
The sea with its wave action and currents is capable of moving enormous amount of sand over a relatively short period of time and as a result of this the gullies and sandbanks are consistently changed even at the favorite spots that are well known to you. This constant change renders google earth useless, as tool that one can use in many cases, due to the fact that the aerial photographs are not updated with the required frequency and requires from the angler the ability to be able to “read” correctly the sea. There is no doubt, that with the fast improvements in the IT environment, very soon we will be able to use google earth or similar programs as a useful tool, to read the sea from the comfort of our homes.
Sandbanks:
Sandbanks are often found at the back of deep gullies.
As the waves break on the sand bank, white foamy water is created on the sand bank and pushed into a portion of the gully. Crabs and prawns are exposed from the action of the waves on the sand banks and this will definitely attract bottom feeders, such as white steenbras. Other type of fish as mullet and karanteen will be attracted by the presence of plankton and other food morsels on the sand bank. Based on this it is recommended and widely accepted by the most anglers to target the sandbanks with bait such as prawn, sand crab, blood worm or chokka for white stenbras.
Drop-off:
Immediately after the sand bank, at the spot, where the water becomes deeper, is referred to by many anglers as the drop-off. Very often food morsels loosened by the waves braking onto the sand bank will be pushed together with the white foamy water into the drop – off, where they will be followed by the bottom feeders and other type of bait fish. Those are the spots where kob is very often found.
Many anglers believe that the kob is a “lazy” swimmer and very often you will hear that they recommend that if there is slight presence of a current, one shall allow for the sinker and bait to drift along with the current and you should follow them from the beach, until you hit a hole. I suspect that there may be other reasons than the kob being “lazy” swimmer for its behavior. Large group of anglers believe that depending on the weather conditions, but especially during the day, the kob will be found at the drop-off of gullies, where he will attempt to stalk the feeding bottom feeders or other bait fish such as mullet or karanteen, feeding on the adjacent sand bank.


A sandbank can be clearly seen at about 78 meters from shore on the photograph above (marked with blue line). You have open sea on your left and right with a gully between the shore and the sandbank.
If you are fishing during day time and in clear water conditions with bright sun shining, the spot to focus on is the sandbank (marked with blue line). On the sandbank during the above described conditions you may find a white steenbras.
The back part of the parallel gully next to the sand bank is a good spot for white steenbras and also for kob.
You are most likely to find some kob on the sandbank or on the drop-off of the sandbank. Sometimes you will find kob in the gully.
During night time the kob a known to enter the channel as seen on the photograph above and chase the bait fish in very close proximity to the shore. Casting over the sand bank in most cases will guarantee you a good size fish, but some wading is required for this to be achieved (Marked as No 3 red line).
Also very productive spots can be the end of the sand banks (Marked as No 2 and 4) the choice of option 2 or 4 will depend on the presence of any side current, choose direction of the current for your casting spot, which will push your sinker towards the sand bank.
Casting in the channel (marked with No1) during day time is a waste of time, but it is the ideal casting spot during night time.
The other factor that you must keep in mind is the color of the sea. Kob are very shy when the sea color is clear. Some prominent anglers believe that if the sea water is clear and the sun is shining, you are wasting your time trying to fish for kob during the day. I tend to agree with this statements.

A channel can be clearly seen on the photograph above (marked with a black dash line No4). This channel is open to the sea.

Two spots are marked as "A" and "B".

At spot "A" one can cast close to the sand plate (Marked as option 1 and 3), or during night time in the middle of the channel (Marked as option 2). The same will be applicable for spot "B". During night time one can have success, by casting anywhere in the channel.

Sandy beaches are very good places to target Kob and my favorite rig would have to be:
• The Pulley rig (used on sand bottom).
Extremely good rig for delivery of variety of baits for kob, allows you to clip your bait securely to the sinker when casting, and also will enable you to keep your hook trace long, with reduced possibility of tangling.
The advantage offered by the pulley rig is that tangling of the hook trace is not a common occurrence as it may be the case with many other rigs.

The use of circle hook is a preferred option on this specific rig. One shall remember that fishing with a circle hooks is slightly different from fishing with a “J” hooks

12.5kg kob caught at Nature's Valley with pulley rig (2009)


Use of sliding sinker:

This is also a very good option for kob fishing from on a sandy bottom.

• Use of DVice
The Dvice is designed as a “Hookbait delivery capsule” with its primary purpose to deliver delicate baits in a good condition at long range. The DVice has a home made feel and is constructed using a plastic tube that contains a self fashioned weight at the base, with a screw thread for attaching Gemini Lead Fittings. Attached to the weight is a piece of stainless steel wire that is fixed into the weight and through the tube at two points, making a rigid construction that is tough to break. It is designed to replace your conventional lead on your rigs.

The product works by protecting the baits inside a plastic cylinder during the cast, Once the Dvice enters the water; the water floods the plastic chamber in a controlled fashion thus ejecting the bait at a speed that is unlikely to damage it.


• Use of none return sliding clip:
Attach a grapnel sinker (5oz - 8oz) to your mainline shock leader with 18" of line at least the same diameter as your shock leader (0.60mm - 0.90mm diameter) to the ring supplied with the bait clip. On to the swivel attached to this ring tie your mainline shock leader. Now cast the sinker out as far as you wish and anchor the sinker. Place the rod in a rod holder. Attach your trace with bait (live or dead) to the swivel on the bait clip. Now attach the bait clip to the main line. With the "Non-return" Bait Clip, make sure the long end of the clip with the swivel points away from the rod tip and towards the sea when attaching the clip to the mainline. Keep the mainline tight, lift the rod tip and slide the bait slowly over the shore break surf into the water. "Work" the bait by shaking the rod tip up and down in constant fashion until the bait slides down to the sinker.

When the bait (livebait or dead bait) is attached to the mainline, the natural wave action and swells carry the bait out into deeper water. The simple, but unique design of the clip enables it to "lock" onto the line (without damaging the line) during the period when the water is "pushing" to shore, yet enables the clip to slide when the water "sucks" back with the backwash. The bait therefore moves out further with every wave cycle until it reaches the sinker or the bait is picked up.

Keep the line fairly tight even if the rod is in a rod holder. Engage ratchet or thumb the spool. Give line during a "pick-up" (don't rush, count at least to 10) and then strike (not if you're using circle hooks!) and wind to connect with sinker and fish. The ring and swivel above the sinker stops the bait clip and prevents any abrasion to the rig.

Fishing tackle: Hooks

Hooks:

There are two main groups of hooks that are currently used for rock and surf fishing:

• Circle Hooks;
• “J “ Hooks and;


Circle hooks were introduced in South Africa recently, in the last 3-4 years and quickly are becoming very popular amongst anglers. They are not a new technological invention, as the Polynesian circle hook has been the most efficient hooking device known to early man.

It is a fact that the mortality of released circle hooked fish is a significant fraction of that of released “J” hooked fish. The fact is, circle hooks greatly reduce mortality of circle hooked released fished, and it is time we all learn how to fish with them.

The most important thing you need to know about circle hook mechanics is that it is imperative that the fish is GOING AWAY from you when you set the hook. Unlike a “J” hook, the circle hook is not set by striking on the rod with force.

When a fish has taken your bait, and it swims away from you, THEN AND ONLY THEN, come tight for the hook set. Do not strike!!!

Each species has it's own particular feeding behaviours, and some lend themselves well to high circle hook-up ratios by their very nature.

When the fish start GOING AWAY FROM YOU ON THE STRIKE.

You simply:

• point the rod tip in their direction;
• let a second or two worth of line peel from your reel;
• lock it in gear;
• and let the line come tight until the fish pulls drag;

The rounded bend design at the tip of a circle hook, doesn’t allow it to snag a gill arch or become engorged in the gut. Instead, as it exits the mouth, it efficiently finds the corner of the fish’s mouth and immediately punctures thru the soft tissue connecting the maxilla bone to the jaws. The fish isn’t hurt by having a hook lodged in its throat as with a “J” hook, and the circle hooks bend will not allow the hook to back out. A fish securely hooked on a circle hook is rarely lost during the fight. Always "Snell" your circle hook!
Example of a “J “Hook


Example of a Circle Hook

Fishing tackle: Tackle box

Tackle box:
Many anglers take pleasure in constructing their own tackle boxes, by using A or H frames from army rucksacks and attaching to them plastic toolboxes.

Some of the products available in the tackle shops are:

ORCA



FROG

Fishing tackle: Line

Fishing line:

Today anglers in South Africa have variety of choice between many different types of good quality fishing lines.

However; some representatives of the fishing line producers claim that, the critical factor determining the performance quality of a line is its diameter and its breaking strain and the relationship between the two. The stronger a line is for its diameter the better, and that there are two types of deceptions existing in the industry:

• Firstly simple exaggeration of breaking strain where companies claim considerably higher performance that is actually true in reality;

• And secondly. Stepping of diameter where companies supply a thicker line than stated to increase the breaking strain.

International Game Fishing Association (IGFA) Rated Monofilament Line:

Examples of IGFA rated lines are:

• Double X;
• Sufix;
• Ande and Moi-Moi;


These monofilament or co-polymer fishing lines rated by IGFA have to brake on or below its specified kilogram or pound test rating printed on the label. These types of lines are suitable for use on both multiplier and fixed spool reels.

One of the most popular and used fishing lines amongst anglers for fishing from sandy beaches in South Africa is Double X and specifically the premium quality Platinum range, which offers extremely high braking strength for the diameter of line used.
In category of its own I would like to place T line, for the simple reason that it is manufactured in South Africa. The manufacturer is situated in Summerset West.


Nylon Monofilament Line:

Mono is a Greek word meaning single. In fishing line terminology that means a single strand of line and has become known as nylon fishing line.


Most entry level fishing line is made of monofilament characterised by low cost and relative strength. Premium grade nylon monofilament line receives more quality control attention, more additives and more attention in the process than normal monofilament line, therefore it is more costly. This type of fishing line can be used on all types of fishing reels.

Drawback for this type of line is that it can absorb water resulting in loose knots, it sensitivity can decrease when it is wet. With time monofilament degrades and can weaken when exposed to heat and sunlight. If it is stored on a spool for a very long time, it may come off the fishing reel in coils or loops. For this reason it is advisable that monofilament line is changed on regular intervals to prevent such degradation.

The Effects of Prolonged Submersion in Water:

Nylon fishing line absorbs water and becomes significantly softer and more flexible. While exposure to water absorption softens nylon monofilament, this is usually preferable in most situations as high levels of water absorption do have a detrimental effect on strength. Both linear and knot strength can be reduced by anything up to 15 per cent after submersion in water for as little as four hours.
After use, mono will return to its equilibrium point after a number of days or weeks, depending on the diameter. A point to note is that fluorocarbon coating waterproofs the line and prevents this problem.

Humidity
Humid conditions at or above 60 per cent are preferable when storing monofilament for longer than a few weeks as this maintains the correct level of softness in the line.

Temperature

Line is best stored between 15 and 25°C. Normal ambient extremes of cold and heat do not significantly affect breaking strength until approaching the melting point of the material. However; a cold line is less flexible, a warmer line more supple.


Natural Light

Nylon is not U. V. stable. In other words the molecular structure within a line will breakdown during prolonged periods of exposure to sunlight. Line should always be stored out of direct sunlight and preferably away from any indirect daylight if being stored for prolonged periods. Do not store your line in green houses or in sheds on a shelf under the window!


Advantage and disadvantage at one and the same time for this type line is its ability to stretch under pressure up to 30%. When line is stretched its strength is weakened, it also allows for extra reaction time when a fish runs. This extra reaction time can provide the angler with the few seconds needed to make the necessary adjustments before a hooked fish is able to break the line. There are many newer lines available on the market, but monofilament line is still one of the best.

Co-polymer Monofilaments:

This fairly recent line innovation is a variation of traditional monofilament, Co-polymer resins also stretches under pressure, but they offer greater flexibility and that allows for greater casting ease and accuracy. There are generally more abrasion resistant than ordinary monofilament lines and knot strength is much better. Double X and is typical example of co-polymer monofilament.

Multifilament Line of Braid:

This type of line is made up of a type of micro-polyethylene Dyneema and Spectra Fiber, an extremely thin fiber for its super strength. These fiber strands measured in weight are 10 times stronger than steel fibers. Multifilament (Braid) may be used on both types fishing reels, multiplier or fixed spool reels. Due to its thin diameter it is ideal for use as a backing line on multiplier reels. Many anglers prefer to fill their multiplier reels with Multifilament line (Braid) and only use about 160m of Co-Polymer Monofilament as a “top shot”, for the following reasons:
• The braid allows for much bigger capacity of line to be fitted on the multiplier reel, due to its thin diameter and without compromising in strength;
• The braid remains compact on the multiplier spool at all time and does not require such a frequent change as it does not absorb water and it is UV ray resistant;
• The disadvantage of casting with braid, if not careful, is that it can severely cut you finger - this is counteracted by adding the “top shot” of Co –Polymer Monofilament line, which is not so expensive and can be replaced (only approximately 160m) often, in this way the use of the extremely expensive Braid (some times quadruple the cost of monofilament) can be relatively justified;
Tipical sample of a Spectra Fiber super line is PowerPro and due to its popularity we will focus on Using PowerPro:

Unlike monofilament, PowerPro will not stretch on the reel and cling to the barrel. This can result in line sliding around the barrel, which can seem like a problem with your drag mechanism. Rest assured, your equipment is fine. To avoid slippage, attach PowerPro to your spool using one of these methods:
1. If your reel has a hole or knob on the barrel, use it.
2. Leave at least 5 to 10 yards of monofilament on the reel (enough to cover the bottom of the spool) before attaching PowerPro with a Uni to Uni splice.
3. Put a piece of compressible tape on the barrel before attaching PowerPro.
Setting the Hook

Anglers on Saturday morning TV shows often set the hook in bass like Samurai warriors beheading the enemy. This may be a fine technique with monofilament line, but PowerPro doesn't require such a violent motion. When you get a strike, relax; a gentle snap of your wrist will set the hook. Because PowerPro doesn't stretch like nylon lines, you won't get that rubber-band effect. Every inch you move your rod tip equals an inch of movement at the lure.

Setting your drag

PowerPro lines are so small for their strength that you may be tempted to set your drag higher than normal, but remember, your rod or reel may not be designed to handle the same unbelievable loads as your line. To make full use of PowerPro's amazing sensitivity without risking damage to your equipment, try one of the following tips:
1. Set your drag to match the weakest component in your tackle system.
2. Set your drag to match the size of mono line you would normally use.
3. When using ultralight equipment or line (10- or 20-lb. test) set your drag to no more than 1/3 of the line's rated strength. You can check the drag with a fish scale.
At lower drag settings, a little extra line may pay out at the hookset, compensating for PowerPro's lack of stretch.

Cutting PowerPro

PowerPro is extremely strong, and nail clippers won't cut it. We recommend sharp scissors such as Fiskars for kids, which are inexpensive, easy to find, and have blunt ends to protect your pockets.

Retie your line

Although PowerPro is extremely strong, it isn't indestructible. If the line starts to look frayed, especially after fishing around structure, it's probably time to cut off the worn section and retie. This way your line will always perform at rated strength.
Repack your line
If your line starts to feel soft or mushy on the reel, especially when fishing with light baits, you should repack your reel. Make an extra long cast or let the line out behind your boat, then reel it in while holding the line taut with your fingers. This will improve casting performance and keep the line from "digging in" after a solid strike.
Using a Monofilament Leader

Attaching a monofilament leader to your PowerPro line may prove useful in the following situations:
1. When bait or jig fishing requires extra finesse, especially in clear water, use a 3-foot monofilament leader to cut down on line visibility.
2. When fishing for species that strike hard and fast, use a monofilament shock tippet. For close-in situations such as bait fishing, try a 3- to 10-foot tippet. For big game applications, you may want to use up to 100 yards or more.
CAUTION:
PowerPro is remarkably thin and strong. To avoid injury, never wrap it around your fingers or hands. If you need to break off the line, wrap it around a solid object and pull.

Fishing tackle: Reels

Reels:

The type of reels currently used by anglers can be classified in two main groups (the Scarborough reel is not discussed in this article):

• The multiplying reel:

Shimano Trinidad

Shimano Torium 30



Shimano Speed Master IV



This group includes a number of makes, but if one would like to start a “war” between the anglers in RSA, he does not need to steal "The Beautiful Helena", but simply pose the question: Which make of multiplying rock & surf reels are better: Shimano or Daiwa? The answer to this question in South Africa is not straight forward, as many of the master anglers, have commercial interests in one or the other of the makes. I own number of reels and I use both makes extensively and have formed my opinion and preference. I’m sure that every beginner will do the same over a period of time too.

However;it is important to point out that some angling websites use unscrupulous blackmailing and extortion tactics in order to generate revenue from advertising and very often purposefully misguide anglers and novices in choice of reel.

Question: How do the websites make money?

Answer: (One of the ways.)

"...My free site makes money through advertising.

When the ads get clicked on, the companies that use adsense to put the ads up on my site pay google, who then pay me!..."



Unscrupulous angling website moderators and owners may try to blackmail one of the brands not advertising on their website, by posting all sorts of information in favor of the companies advertising on their site.

You should remember one thing when it comes to reels - the reel does not always have to be expensive to be able to do the job. And some of the less expensive reels may last twice as the more expensive reel.

Daiwa Saltist 50



The line in this group of reels feeds directly off the drum, there is a clutch which must be disengaged for casting, and most importantly there is a brake which allows one to vary the tension on the line and will help you in fighting large fish.

The adjustment of the drag is a subject for discussion on its own and it is recommended that it is set to the 1/3 of the braking strength of the main line in use. However; important rule of thumb for beginners and occasional anglers is to tighten the drag of the reel in such way as to allow you to strike a fish without causing a “bird nest” on your reel, and also to allow a fair size fish to “take a line” from your reel if you have a run. If the fish is running and taking line from your reel “Keep cranking the knob until the fishi stops running.”



Once you gain fair amount of experience you will be able to determine the level of adjustment of your drag required by releasing the knob and pulling some line with your hand from the reel.

NB: If you are fishing with more than one rod, or making use of rod holders, always release the drag of your reel to such an extent that fish can take a line from the reel and engage the click control lever in order to produce a loud warning noise. In accordance with the prevailing sea conditions, release the drug to such an extent that you do not allow waives or the currents to pull line from your reel.

Many rods a lost due to fisherman forgetting to release their drag and leaving the rod in a rod holders. It is one of the most sickening feelings for one to see his rod and reel pop out of the rod holder and disappear in the sea at speed. Even if you leave the rod in the rod holder for few seconds in order for you to attend to something in your tackle bag or bait box, remember to release the drag of your reel.

It is important to mention that this type of reels is designed to fit on top of the rod and allow for the use of one’s thumb to control the speed of the drum while casting.
Casting with multipliers require fair amount of skill before they can be used effectively. It is not uncommon to see anglers living in Johannesburg or the interior of the Country utilizing rugby fields, dams and other open areas to improve their casting skills and prepare for the upcoming dream fishing trip to the cost. However; nothing can replace the experience gained when casting at the sea and having to do it for “real”, with bait, wading considerable distance in the sea, waives, wind etc.
A distance of 120 – 140 m with good wading will allow you to reach most of the productive spots, where fish may be feeding. A long casts are not required at all the time, but when the fish is feeding on a sand bank situated at about 120m, your ability to reach it may be the difference, between you being rewarded with a fish and the fellow fishing next to you, fowling short of the bank, catching none.

Word of caution: Before one reaches the above mentioned distances consistently when casting with a multiplier reel, it should be expected that:

• number of “bird nests” will occur on your reel and considerable amount of line wasted;

• burned thumb and/or line;
• and in some instances fairly serious injuries as deeply cut thumbs have been known to occur;

Setting of the spool tension:



Setting of the spool tension is achieved through turning the cast control cap of your reel to the right (clock wise). Achieving of maximum casting distance is a subject for discussion on its own and the good advice will be that, in the beginning of your casting carrier; it is recommended that you keep the cap almost to a fully tight position in order to avoid possible dreaded “bird nests”. This will decrease the distance of your casts, but as you build confidence and experience with your casting you may be able to release the cast control knob on you real further and achieve greater distances.

Word of caution: Do not excessively loosen the cap as water may seep inside. Always observe what experienced anglers using multipliers do, if they happen to fish in close proximity to you.

Even and under tension spooling of your main fishing line on the reel is a must if you intend to produce a good cast.

Many anglers, once they connect their leader, trace and sinker if fishing from a sandy beach before their first cast, will let a line of about 100m on the beach and then carefully spool the line on their reel, to ensure good tension, before their first cast.

Use of line lubricants, sold at tackle shops, helps a lot (rocket fuel etc.), but if your casting technique and experience are not at the required level, do not expect miracles only because you are using this type of products. Moisturizing your line with a normal drinking water (not sea/salt water), will definitely help for a smoother and further cast.
Do not give up, keep trying and you will learn to “shake hands” with the drum of your reel and your rod to perfection on almost every cast.

The experienced fisherman laughing at you, because you are getting a “bird nest” or hitting the 25m mark, was not born with the skill of casting multiplying reels. Believe me he has gone through the same frustration, pain and humiliation at one or another stage of his life. Even the most experienced anglers are not immune to a “bird nests”.

My advice will be to walk straight to him and ask him to show you how to bait, and cast you rod for you. I guarantee you that most of the experienced anglers will show you with pleasure how to do it, and will give you even more useful tips. Look, listen and memorise their advice.

Proper “loading” of your road while casting is extremely important for achieving good casting distance.

Make sure that before casting your clutch lever is released and that the STRIKE ALARM CLICK is in off position.



• The spinning reel (coffee grinder):



These reels are designed to fit under the rod and there is no need for control of the speed of the drum with once thumb.
On this type of reel the drum or spool faces sideways and the line feeds from a fixed spool through a “bale arm”.

Generally they are much easier to cast with, as one just opens the “bale arm” and casts. It is virtually impossible the dreaded “bird nests” to occur. These types of reels are extremely popular amongst occasional anglers and very often are used for shad fishing.

As it is the case with the multiplier reels there is number of manufactures competing for share of the market in South Africa.