Friday, November 12, 2010

How to throw a cast net

The best fishing results without a doubt are achieved when using live bait. Many anglers use small hooks and spend considerable time to catch bait fish when practicing Land Based Surf Angling. One can save precious time when collecting live bait if he/she uses casting net.

Chum the spot, where you intend to cast for bait fish.

One will achieve much better results in catching bait fish as mullet or strepies if you chum the spot where you intend to cast for bait fish (in the surf or lagoons).

One of the methods of chumming used by many anglers (and my favorite) is to use offcuts of  old bait as sardines, sardine heads chopped to fine pieces in a bucket or container. Generously add some anchovy oil over the pulp in the bucket and mix. Add some sand and mix it with the pulp until you can be able to construct small balls which does not disintegrate so easy  when you throw them in the sea (do not expect to be able to beat the world record for shot put whit the balls), all you need to achieve is good throw of 6 - 7 meters in the surf. After chumming you spot you can wait for about 15-20 minutes and then aim and cast your casting net at the spot that you chum.

How to throw a casting net?

Many people are not familiar with casting nets and are generally afraid to use them due to the complex looking procedure.  
There are number of different ways to throw a casting net  but in my opinion the simplest and easiest way to throw a casting net is as described on the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOUkj2h2LjI


How to keep your live bait alive, while fishing from sandy beach?

The easiest way is to dig a hole in the sand use some black plastic bags to line the hole. Poor some sea water and you can keep you live bait alive for some considerable time if you regularly change the water and provide some shade (if the weather is too sunny) to the fish.

It is almost summer!!! One more month and the great annual lemming migration from Gauteng to the sea will begin.


Common Summer!!!

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Casting net.

 The best fishing results without a doubt are achieved when using live bait. Many anglers use small hooks and spend considerable time to catch bait fish when practicing Land Based Surf Angling. One can save precious time when collecting live bait if he/she uses casting net.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOUkj2h2LjI

Chum the spot, where you intend to cast for bait fish.

One will achieve much better results in catching bait fish as mullet or strepies if you chum the spot where you intend to cast for bait fish (in the surf or lagoons).

One of the methods of chumming used by many anglers (and my favorite) is to use offcuts of  old bait as sardines, sardine heads chopped to fine pieces in a bucket or container. Generously poor some anchovy oil over the pulp in the bucket and mix. Add some sand and mix it with the pulp until you can be able to construct small balls which does not disintegrate so easy  when you throw them in the sea (do not expect to be able to beat the world record for shot put whit the balls), all you need to achieve is good throw of 6 - 7 meters in the surf. After chumming you spot you can wait for about 15-20 minutes and then aim and cast your casting net at the spot that you chum.

How to throw a casting net?

Many people are not familiar with casting nets and are generally afraid to use them due to the complex looking procedure.  
There are number of different ways to throw a casting net  but in my opinion the simplest and easiest way to throw a casting net is as described on the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOUkj2h2LjI


How to keep your live bait alive, while fishing from sandy beach?

The easiest way is to dig a hole in the sand use some black plastic bags to line the hole. Poor some sea water and you can keep you live bait alive for some considerable time if you regularly change the water and provide some shade (if the weather is too sunny) to the fish.

It is almost Summer!!! One more month and the great annual lemming migration from Gauteng to the sea will begin.

Come on Summer!!!

Friday, September 24, 2010

For Anthony: Multifilament Line of Braid




Multifilament Line of Braid:

This type of line is made up of a type of micro-polyethylene Dyneema and Spectra Fiber, an extremely thin fiber for its super strength. These fiber strands measured in weight are 10 times stronger than steel fibers. Multifilament (Braid) may be used on both types fishing reels, multiplier or fixed spool reels. Due to its thin diameter it is ideal for use as a backing line on multiplier reels. Many anglers prefer to fill their multiplier reels with Multifilament line (Braid) and only use about 160m of Co-Polymer Monofilament as a “top shot”, for the following reasons:

·        The braid allows for much bigger capacity of line to be fitted on the multiplier reel, due to its thin diameter and without compromising in strength;
·        The braid remains compact on the multiplier spool at all time and does not require such a frequent change as it does not absorb water and it is UV ray resistant;
·        The disadvantage of casting with braid, if not careful, is that it can severely cut you finger - this is counteracted by adding the “top shot” of Co –Polymer Monofilament line, which is not so expensive and can be replaced (only approximately 160m) often, in this way the use of the extremely expensive Braid (some times quadruple the cost of monofilament) can be relatively justified;

Tipical sample of a Spectra Fiber super line is PowerPro and due to its popularity we will focus on Using PowerPro:
 


Unlike monofilament, PowerPro will not stretch on the reel and cling to the barrel. This can result in line sliding around the barrel, which can seem like a problem with your drag mechanism. Rest assured, your equipment is fine. To avoid slippage, attach PowerPro to your spool using one of these methods:
  1. If your reel has a hole or knob on the barrel, use it.
  2. Leave at least 5 to 10 yards of monofilament on the reel (enough to cover the bottom of the spool) before attaching PowerPro with a Uni to Uni splice.
  3. Put a piece of compressible tape on the barrel before attaching PowerPro.
Uni Knot - For tying terminal tackle-stronger knot
  1. Pass the line through the eye of your tackle at least twice, leaving 12" for your knot.
  1. Loop the tag end around the standing line, then pass the tag end through your loop 8 to 10 more times.
  1. Pull the tag end to tighten the knot, making sure the 8-10 wraps snug down neatly.

  1. Pull the standing line to jam the knot against your tackle eye, then trim the tag end.

Uni to Uni Splice Knot - For tying PowerPro to mono of similar diameter
  1. Lay PowerPro and monofilament parallel, with 12" to 18" tag ends facing opposite directions.
  1. Loop the tag end of the mono around both lines, then pass the tag end through your loop 5 to 6 more times. Pull the tag end through your loop 5 to 6 more times. Pull the tag end to tighten the knot, making sure the wraps snug down neatly.
  1. Repeat step #2 using the PowerPro tag end, but use 8 to 10 wraps.
  1. Pull on the standing lines to jam the two knots together tightly.
  1. Trim the PowerPro tag end about 1/8" past the knot. Trim the mono tag end as close to the knot as possible.


Reverse Knot - For tying PowerPro to mono of larger diameter - easy knot
  1. Double your PowerPro, leaving a 1/2" loop at the end. Wrap the PowerPro around the mono 10 to 12 times, leaving your loop open and opposite the mono tag end.
  1. Pass the mono tag end through the PowerPro loop.
  1. Pull on both lines to tighten the knot, jamming the wraps together.
  1. Tie a Lock.

Palomar Knot - For tying terminal tackle - easy knot
  1. Make a 10" loop in the line, then pass it through the eye of your tackle
  1. If the eye is big enough, pass the loop through a second time.
  1. Tie a simple overhand knot, but don't pull it tight.
  1. Pass your tackle through the loop.
  1. Pull on your standing line to tighten the knot, then trim the tag end

Albright Knot - For tying PowerPro to mono of larger diameter - stronger knot
  1. Make a loop in the mono, and hold it with your left hand. Double 30" of PowerPro to create a 15" two-strand section. Pass this through the mono loop.
  1. Wrap the PowerPro loosely around the fingertip of the hand you're using to hold the mono, then wrap the PowerPro around itself and the mono 20 to 25 times. Work toward the end of the loop, keeping your wraps tight and snug.
  1. Run the PowerPro back through the mono loop so it exits on the same side it entered.
  1. Wet the PowerPro, and tug on the standing line and tag end to jam your wraps tightly together, moving them toward the end of the loop.
  1. Pull both standing lines to tighten the knot, then use soft-jawed pliers or a gloved hand to pull the knot tighter. Pull both standing lines at once to make sure the knot is secure.
Tie a Lock.

Lock Knot - To finish the Albright or Reverse Albright
  1. Loop the PowerPro tag end around the standing PowerPro, then pass the tag end through this loop three times.
  1. Pull the tag end to tighten the wraps, then trim your tag ends.
No-Name Knot - For tying PowerPro to Fluorocarbon/Mono shock leader
  1. Make figure 8 loop on leader
  1. Insert PowerPro into figure 9 loop
  1. Wrap PowerPro 12 times and 12 times back to the other direction
  1. Insert PowerPro back into figure 8 loop
  1. Cinch leader tightly
  1. Pull main PowerPro slowly then pull PowerPro tag-end slowly and pull both main and tag-end of PowerPro tightly
  1. Make a half hitch twice on tag-end
  1. Cut the tag-end of PowerPro and leader

And my favorite and the most trusted knot is............

Bimini twists knots on both the mono and braid and attached together by cat paw knot.

My favorite braid is Fire Line Micro fused DYNEEMA, remember the word dyneema.

For the fire line you don't really need to use "fancy" knots, your best 2 or 3 knots that you know how to tie to perfection will do the job. With this type of line I don't even use any mono top shot, attach your hook and sinker strait to the fire line and cast.





Sunday, July 18, 2010

Where to fish? Keurboomstrand.

There has been, and there are raging debates amongst anglers on the subject of productive/popular fishing spots:
  • Do these spots consistently produce catches of the same fish species, during certain seasons and/or climate conditions, or not?
The answer to this question, as everything else related to rock and surf angling, is not simple and straight forward, in my opinion.
As it is generally accepted amongst experienced anglers, one of the secrets for success in rock and surf angling is the ability of the angler to “read” the ocean and identify different underwater formations such as: sandbanks, “holes”, channels, sand plates etc., in order for him or her to be able to select the most appropriate area in which, he or she can cast the carefully prepared bait, when targeting specific species of fish.
It is also established that certain fish species visit consistently specific areas year after year, during specific months. Not only the seasoned anglers, but any person understands that the ocean moves enormous quantities of sand in the tidal zone consistently, therefore: holes, channels and sandbanks at specific fishing spot may quickly disappear or move, which will require from the angler fishing the spot to be able to “read” the ocean and select the most likely areas for his/her cast.
This article is not going to deal with the subject of “reading” the ocean, but rather attempt to point out to any newcomer, or beginner anglers, which are the most popular fishing spot in the area, based on accounts received from local anglers (in some cases my modest personal experience) and the fish species caught at  these spots.
Keurboomstrand is a small community situated east of Plettenberg Bay (approximately 12-13km).

Vehicles are not allowed on the beaches, but there are number of places fairly close to fishing spots where one can park. I would like to commend the local communities in the area, in their effort to position armed response vehicles at some of the parking’s in close proximity to the fishing spots during the holiday season . This will go a long way to ensure the security of the parked vehicles and anglers and will allow the anglers to enjoy fishing during some of the most productive hours of the night. Excellent initiative!!!
Tackle and good quality bait can be purchased from Plettenberg Sport Shop the guys running the place will provide you willingly with information where some catches were made.
Robberg Seafood offers some good quality bait, too.  The best bait at the best price in the area can be obtained from “The Bait Master”.
And of course, the best bait by far, that you do not buy, is the one that you collect in the Keurbooms river – sand prawns, mud prawns and blood worms.
East of Keurboomstrand series of large rock formations can be observed on the coastline:

  • Arch Rock – is a well known landmark which attracts many tourists. One can expect good catches of galjoen during winter.

  • Bloubankies – well known for good catches of white mussel cracker. Also one can expect to land some kob at this spot.

  • Picnic Rocks – has produced some good catches of kob and white mussel cracker.
  • One can expect to catch white steenbras, black tails from the sandy beech in front of the resort.

The main beach of the resort have lost considerable amount of sand during the last few years and does not have the same look as before, but the combination of isolated rocks and sandy bottom remains attractive spot for the anglers.

The long sandy beach extending from Picnic Rocks to the Keurbooms river is known to produce good catches of kob, white steenbras, white mussel cracker, shad and garrick.

  • The spot in line with the bridge before the first parking area (sea photo below) is known to produce very good catches of kob.
In general, for the entire area, the following summary for likely catches may be drawn:
  • During Winter and Spring : One will most likely catch galjoen, shad, white steenbras, black tail.
  • During Summer and Autumn: One will most likely catch kob, white steenbras, musselcracker, grunter, shad.
Note: With the invent of the Global Warming, many anglers in the area are starting to believe that somehow the catches associated with November/December months have moved to March/April, and many inconsistencies with the above summary were observed.

Target species: Galjoen, damba

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Dichistius capensis (Smith No. 187.1)
COMMON NAMES: Galjoen, damba

DISTRIBUTION OF SPECIES: Endemic to southern Africa occurring from southern Angola to Durban (Smith and Heemstra 1986)
DISTRIBUTION OF STOCK: As above
HABITAT
ADULTS & JUVENILES: Adults and juveniles occupy the same habitat: exposed surf-zone and shallow sub-tidal reefs, including kelp beds. They are most abundant at the interface of sand and reefs. Galjoen never enter estuaries
EGGS & LARVAE: Little known about distribution, eggs are known to float and have been described by Leis and van der Lingen (1997). Larvae are particularly vulnerable to starvation during very early life (van der Lingen 1994)
MIGRATION: A complex pattern that includes resident and dispersive behaviour has emerged from tagging studies. The majority of tag returns (>75%) suggest resident behaviour, with ranges smaller than 500m, while others are known to migrate vast distances, throughout the range of the population. The disparity is not correlated with season, size or sex. Although larger individuals show a greater propensity for dispersal, the trend is not consistent as some small fish have moved large distances and some large fish were recovered at their release area after several years (Attwood and Bennett 1994)
FISHERY: The vast majority of galjoen are taken by the recreational shore-fishery and spear-fishery. A net-fishery that once operated has been banned, but illegal catches are still common on the WC. Galjoen are occasionally taken by light tackle boat anglers. The sale of galjoen is illegal
BIOLOGY AND POPULATION DYNAMICS
GROWTH CURVE: Males Lt = 472mm TL(1-e-0.252/yr(t-0.694yrs)) SWC (Bennett and Griffiths 1986)
Females Lt = 677mm TL(1-e-0.142/yr (t-0.282yrs)) SWC (Bennett and Griffiths 1986)
LENGTH-WEIGHT: Wt(g) = 9.03 x 10-6 TL(mm)3.12 SWC (Bennett and Griffiths 1986)
LENGTH RELATIONSHIP: FL(mm) = 0.91 TL + 2.71 SWC (Bennett and Griffiths 1986)
LENGTH AT 50% MATURITY: Males 31cm TL, Females 34cm TL (Bennett and Griffiths 1986)
AGE AT 50% MATURITY: Males and females reach maturity in their sixth year (Bennett and Griffiths 1986)
REPRODUCTIVE STYLE: Gonochoristic (Bennett and Griffiths 1986)
M:F SEX RATIO: Samples are always biased towards females, as they grow faster and enter the fishery earlier but no reason to suspect that the ratio differs from 1:1 (Bennett and Griffiths 1986)
SPAWNING SEASON: October to March (Bennett and Griffiths 1986)
SPAWNING LOCALITY: Throughout range
MAXIMUM LENGTH: 670mm TL
MAXIMUM WEIGHT: 6.5kg (SASAA record)
MAXIMUM AGE: Oldest aged fish in Bennett and Griffiths’ (1986) sample was 13 years, but fish over 600mm TL have not been reliably aged. M. Kerstan (MCM) examined an otolith of a 640mm TL fish in 1988, and suggested an age of over 20 years
LENGTH AT FIRST CAPTURE: 350mm TL (minimum legal size)
AGE AT FIRST CAPTURE: Males 6 years, Females 5 years
NATURAL MORTALITY: Not reliably estimated. Males M = 0.38 year-1, females M = 0.32 year-1 (Bennett 1988)
FISHING MORTALITY: Males F = 0.53 year-1, females F = 1.08 year-1 (Bennett 1988)
RESEARCH PRIORITIES
Continuation of study on fish movement patterns. Continuation of monitoring of catch per unit effort and age structure in MPAs at Goukamma, De Hoop, Cape Point, Tsitsikamma, and in exploited areas at Cape Point and Still Bay. More areas need to be covered
MANAGEMENT CONSIDERATIONS
Careful monitoring of the fishery by means of shore patrols (roving creel surveys) should be undertaken throughout the distribution of this species on a regular basis. Improved law enforcement is required on the WC to reduce illegal netting for galjoen.
The above information obtained from SOUTHERN AFRICAN MARINE LINEFISH STATUS REPORTS.
In 1992 galjoen was listed as the national marine emblem of RSA. The Galjoen was arguably the first endemic fish to be recognized in South African waters.
Can you imagine, if all the sport teams like Sharks, Dolphins etc. are instructed to change their names to galjoen or damba?
Galjoen is regarded by many as an excellent fish to eat. Extremely good for braai.
Many of the “Macho” anglers, and there are quite a few of them around for my liking, will refer to anglers which fish for edible fish only, as “galjoen fisherman”. I will take a catch of any fussy  edible fish any time with real satisfaction and get really upset, when a “vacuum cleaner” of any sort picks up my bait.
Bait:
Many anglers believe that the best bait for galjoen is redbait, and many fish are caught on redbait.
I strongly believe that when fishing for galjoen from the rocks the No1 bait of choice for me will be mussel worm. These type of worms are usually found in the colonies of black mussels and in my opinion are worth the effort of collecting and using as a bait for galjoen. All that said, one shall keep in mind that the galjoen can be very fussy and if you had a success on one day with specific bait, that may not be the case on the following day. If you are targeting galjoen using redbait and the angler next to you keep pulling them out using mussel worm or blood worm, there are two things you can do:
  • get yourself mussel worm or blood worm;
  • move to another spot;
Other baits that can be used with success for galjoen are:
  • black mussels;
  • limpets;
  • sand mussels;
  • pink prawns;
  • sand crabs;
Very often one will hear experienced anglers to say that it looks like that the galjoen feeds the best when conditions appear to be at their worst. I will agree with this statement. One can expect best results when fishing in rough water.  They can be caught during the day or night on any tides; however incoming or high tide works best for me.
Traces:
Rock bottom:

The use of small hook is extremely important if you target galjoen.
In general, when constructing traces for rock bottom one shall use line with considerable lesser braking strength for the sinker, than the one used for the hook. This will give you a better chance to land a fish if your sinker gets stuck in the “bricks”, as braking the line holding the sinker will still allow you to bring in the fish. Make sure that the braking strength of the line still allows you to properly cast, without loosing the sinker during the cast.
It is also, generally accepted that the best sinkers to be used for rocky bottom are the teardrop sinkers, as they don’t get stuck as much as the cone, pyramid etc.. Some anglers also believe in making the length of the line used for the sinker snoot much shorter than the line used for the hook.
When galjoen takes the bait, in general, they move with good speed with the bait.You can expect a tremendous fight, for the size of the fish you are fighting.


Target species: Shad

South African record: 10.3kg
DISTRIBUTION OF SPECIES: World-wide in warm temperate-shelf waters (van der Elst 1976)
DISTRIBUTION OF STOCK: SA coastline, primarily from Cape Point to southern MOZ (van der Elst 1976)
South African record: 10.3kg
DISTRIBUTION OF SPECIES: World-wide in warm temperate-shelf waters (van der Elst 1976)
DISTRIBUTION OF STOCK: SA coastline, primarily from Cape Point to southern MOZ (van der Elst 1976)
HABITAT
ADULTS: Sandy and rocky substrata from shore down to 100m (van der Elst 1976)
JUVENILES: Shallow subtidal waters (< 20m deep) primarily in larger embayments in the SEC and SWC (van der Elst 1976, Smale 1984, Wallace et al. 1984a, Wallace et al. 1984b)
MIGRATION: Adults and 0+ juveniles migrate seasonally between the SWC and KZN passing through the SEC and TKI. It is both an alimental and gametic migration with shad feeding largely on sardines (Sardinops sagax) and spawning occurring in warmer KZN waters. Adults are common during the summer and autumn months in Cape waters and during winter and spring in KZN (van der Elst 1976). The migration of 0+ juveniles precedes the migration of larger adults
FISHERY: Elf is the most important shore angling species caught in SWC, SEC, TKI and KZN (Brouwer et al.1997). It is important to recreational skiboat fishers in the SWC, SEC, TKI and KZN, but primarily used for bait by this sector. Elf are important to commercial skiboat fishers primarily in the SWC, especially in False Bay and Struis Bay (NMLS commercial data). Prior to new regulations promulgated in September 1998, elf were not allowed to be commercially exploited in KZN. Elf are also caught by the False Bay trek netters and are caught as a by-catch by the Vetch’s Pier seine netters in Durban (Lamberth et al. 1995a,b, Beckley and Fennessy 1996). SA lands about 0.2% of the global elf catch of 20 000 mt (FAO 1999)
CURRENT REGULATIONS
CATEGORY: Restricted List
BAG LIMIT: 5 person-1 day-1 (recreationals only)
MINIMUM SIZE: 30cm TL
CLOSED SEASON: 1st September to 30th November, both dates inclusive (applies to all fishers)
MANAGEMENT CONSIDERATIONS
Under the new regulations (September 1998) elf can be commercially exploited in KZN. This is almost certainly going to increase F on this species. Consideration should be given to de-commercialising elf throughout its distribution as this is primarily a recreational species.
The above information obtained from: www.ori.org.za


The shad is a predator and is equipped with a razor sharp teeth. It is believed that they do not grow much bigger than 10kg. Excellent eating, but do not freeze. Shad is most often caught on:
- sardines;
- fresh fillets;
- mackerel;
- chokka;
- live bait (karanteen);
- spoons;

Depending on the size of the fish in the area, wire traces on the hooks are recommended, although if 0.75mm line is used, you may land most of the Juvenal fish, provided that a long shank hooks are used. It is advisable for one to use long baits when fishing for shad.
It is recommended that hooks from 4/0 to 8/0 are used. The use of shad bung is one of the most popular traces used in South Africa.

Total trace length of from the hook to the 3 way swivel = 50cm.
Piano wire = 10-15 cm.
Total trace length for the sinker = 60cm.

Blue marlin introduced a new spinning rods – Trueflex at very good price. Combined with relatively inexpensive Shimano Alivio one can get very good and reliable set up.
Depending on where the fish is feeding (on the surface or on the bottom), when fish is feeding on the surface, the use of drift sardine bait is very effective and popular. A whole sardine is used for bait, as shown on the drawing.

The advantages of using the drift bait method are:
  • Relatively less messy (if there is such thing when angling);
  • The top hook is hooked through the mouth of the sardine and takes all the strain from the casting action, therefore there is no need for use of cotton;
  • The bottom hook is inserted in the general area of the sardine in which the shad will usually strike the bait;
  • No cutting of bait required;
When using the drift bait method, make sure that:
  • wire is used for the second (bottom) hook;
  • your bottom hook is needle point sharp;
Very often one will hear some anglers to refer to “green” shad and “blue” shad, I may be wrong, but I think that we are referring to one and the same specie in different stages of maturity.

In my opinion, the Juvenal shad is the fish specie that is caught by unscrupulous fisherman in huge numbers, despite the set bag limits. The behavior of most of the  law reinforcement officials, tasked with the monitoring of the existing regulations is despicable, when it comes to monitoring and enforcing the declared bag limit for shad. It is very easy to know when and where the shad is running and then make sure that officials are present to enforce the existing legislation.

3 or 5 section surf rod stuck?

As more and more anglers use the 3 or 5 pieces surf rods, I decided to share some useful tips on:

- how to prevent/minimize different sections of the 3 or 5 piece rod getting stuck so badly that you can not take them apart and;

- how to take them apart once they seem to be “welded” together.

Very often an angler will arrive at his favorite spot and feverishly start assembling his/her fishing gear, the assembly of the 3 or 5 piece surf rod very often is done in a great hurry, as every wasted minute or second increases the anxiety of the angler.

During the assembly of the rod the anglers simply take the “male” section of the rod and stick it into the “female” section, as much as it can go in and tighter as possible without using any lubrication. Very often this will result in the two parts getting stuck nice and solid, and with the inevitable moisture on the rod after the fishing session one can hear a lot of “strong” words used by the angler while attempting to separate the two parts, but very little result. It seems that the parts of the rod are stuck together and there is no chance for anyone to take them apart. Familiar situation??? I bet.

I have a friend who had the tip section of a five piece rod stuck into the middle section for 3 years, preventing him to use the medium and heavy tips of the rod and he believed that there was no way to separate the two pieces without braking them. After 15 minutes spend with him in his garage he was able himself to easily separate the two stuck parts and he could not believe how simple and easy was to achieve.

Preventing the section of the rod getting stuck:

Tip 1: When assembling your rod, run the tips of your fingers along your forehead, sides of your nose. 9 times out of 10 you will feel that there will be oily substance stuck to your finger tips after you are finished. Take the “male” section of the rod and lubricate the end of the section (which is intended to fit into the female part of the other section) before insertion.

Tip 2: Do not insert the sections too deep, even if you insert them just after the halfway they will not come loose during casting and will definitely not affect negatively your casting action.

Separating stuck sections of a surf rod:

Tip 1: Dry the sections of the rod on which you can have good non slip grip and twist the sections in opposite directions. If that fails:

Tip 2: Submerge the sections in warm/hot water (not sea water) and twist the sections in opposite directions. If that fails:

Tip 3: Take 3 x approx 10cm wooden blocks and using electrical tape, tape the blocks on the one section of the rod in such way that they can form a comfortable handle. Use similar wooden blocks and tape to form identical handle on the other section of the rod. Using the created handles twist in opposite directions. This method works 100%.
As more and more anglers use the 3 or 5 pieces surf rods, I decided to share some useful tips on:

- how to prevent/minimize different sections of the 3 or 5 piece rod getting stuck so badly that you can not take them apart and;

- how to take them apart once they seem to be “welded” together.

Very often an angler will arrive at his favorite spot and feverishly start assembling his/her fishing gear, the assembly of the 3 or 5 piece surf rod very often is done in a great hurry, as every wasted minute or second increases the anxiety of the angler.

During the assembly of the rod the anglers simply take the “male” section of the rod and stick it into the “female” section, as much as it can go in and tighter as possible without using any lubrication. Very often this will result in the two parts getting stuck nice and solid, and with the inevitable moisture on the rod after the fishing session one can hear a lot of “strong” words used by the angler while attempting to separate the two parts, but very little result. It seems that the parts of the rod are stuck together and there is no chance for anyone to take them apart. Familiar situation??? I bet.

I have a friend who had the tip section of a five piece rod stuck into the middle section for 3 years, preventing him to use the medium and heavy tips of the rod and he believed that there was no way to separate the two pieces without braking them. After 15 minutes spend with him in his garage he was able himself to easily separate the two stuck parts and he could not believe how simple and easy was to achieve.

Preventing the section of the rod getting stuck:

Tip 1: When assembling your rod, run the tips of your fingers along your forehead, sides of your nose. 9 times out of 10 you will feel that there will be oily substance stuck to your finger tips after you are finished. Take the “male” section of the rod and lubricate the end of the section (which is intended to fit into the female part of the other section) before insertion.

Tip 2: Do not insert the sections too deep, even if you insert them just after the halfway they will not come loose during casting and will definitely not affect negatively your casting action.

Separating stuck sections of a surf rod:

Tip 1: Dry the sections of the rod on which you can have good non slip grip and twist the sections in opposite directions. If that fails:

Tip 2: Submerge the sections in warm/hot water (not sea water) and twist the sections in opposite directions. If that fails:

Tip 3: Take 3 x approx 10cm wooden blocks and using electrical tape, tape the blocks on the one section of the rod in such way that they can form a comfortable handle. Use similar wooden blocks and tape to form identical handle on the other section of the rod. Using the created handles twist in opposite directions. This method works 100%.

Friday, April 2, 2010

South - Eastern Cape: Nature's Valley

Nature's Valley


Travel to Nature's Valley:

Kulula - Gedeon's "Tuck shop in the air" manage to take - off from Johannesburg on the 3rd attempt, and we arrived with about 4hours delay. 4hurs wasted fishing time. Hmmm ... running the school tuck shop and airline are not the same Mr Novick. On arrival at George airport, we got our ride for the week and loaded everything in it.



The Bait (One of the most important acquisitions during the trip):

Short drive to Plett and we were directly at the doorsteps of The Bait Master - the best quality bait at the best price, no arguments.

We stocked about 2 kgs of nice white IQF chokka, white mussels, octopus tubes, sardines and some nice mackerel.

Recommendation:

Anyone, planning a fishing trip to Plett and the surrounding areas get in touch with The Bait Master for some of the best quality bait on offer.

The accommodation:

We spend one week at The Wood guest house. Our hosts Dawn and her husband, were one of the most hospitable and hardworking people, which admitted that it is the first time that they have such a made anglers staying at their place.



The place is virtually on the beach - walk past the shop and you are at entrance N0 1.

Recommendation:

I can strongly recommend to any visitors the guest house.


The Gully at Nature's Valley - there were more than 16 sharks in the gully. I guess - spotted gully sharks, not big on sharks.







Fishing with 2 fishing rods during the night was not fun. We end up with 11 sharks for the night. They were taking on any bait, octopus leg, chokka, sardine. At the end of the fishing session, I felt like after a looong gym session.





One of the sharks was so big that it spooled the braid from the real of my friend and start pooling both of us into the water. Finlay the creature managed to tangle around the braid(braking strength 40kg) and brake it. What a relief we managed to save the rod and the reel.

























During most of the days Red bait was washed consistently on the beach and many of the fishermen used it with some level of success.









Amongst the red bait we found Venus ear and Abalone. They were returned to the sea.

Attempting to get mussel cracker:Right time of the day; right bait; right spot, wrong time of the year maybe:



















Fishing in the lagoon:

One of the most productive spots is the lagoon. While pumping for sand prawns we left Blue Marline trueflex light rod with Shimano Alivio reel, baited with sardine in. Only while pumping for sand prawns we caught the following fish:

1. 2.5 kg Some variety of Mullet;



2. 3-3.5kg - Spotted Granter;



3.Small Cob




4.Black tails:


5. Strepies; and of course, plenty of sand sharks



I was very tempted to dedicate one of our night fishing sessions to the lagoon, targeting Garrick and/or cob on a live bait, but I did not and now I'm sorry. Next trip, definitely targeting both in the lagoon.








































Pilgrimage to Robberg Point:

It goes without saying that visit to the area, requires a visit to the Robberg Point.

The start of the journey:



















Meide Bank:


















The Eiland:
















Above the seals:















The Point:


Wednesday, March 10, 2010

South - Eastern Cape: Robberg Peninsula




R O B B E R G
Na t u r e a n d Ma r i n e P r o t e c t e d A r e a

The Robberg peninsula is a national monument, Nature reserve and Marine protected area that lies about 8km south of Plettenberg Bay - a prestigious coastal resort on South Africas’ famous Garden Route.

The ecology of the Robberg Peninsula is similar to that of other rock headlands on this coastline and it presents a fine example of how plants and animals adapt to the interacting influences of land and sea.

1. Life in the Stone Ages: Nelson Bay Cave.

Important Middle and Later Stone Age archaeological site. First occupied 120 000 years ago when the sea level dropped. Grasslands stretched beyond the southern horizon during last Ice Age when sea levels were lower. Giant Cape horse; giant buffalo and giant hartebeest used to graze here. They became extinct about 10 000 years ago. There are several other cave and open sites with evidence of Stone Age occupation on the peninsula. There are detailed interpretation facilities at Nelson Bay Cave.

2. First recorded European habitation in South Africa.

In 1630 The Sao Goncalo a Portuguese vessel, was wrecked here. The survivors camped on the beach for about nine months while they built two small boats. Despite being wrecked again, some managed to reach Portugal. The remains of the Athena a modern fishing trawler which sank nearby, are still visible.

3. First evidence of the modern South African coastline.

Robberg’s rocks date back to the early Cretaceous period (110 -130 million years ago) and the earliest break-up of Gondwanaland - a prehistoric super continent that split up into latter-day South America, Africa, Antarctica, India and Australia about 120 million years ago. The rocks at Robberg were deposited in the bed of this new African sea.

4. Look out, for spoor of the Western Cape’s smallest antelope, the blue duiker.

Classified rare in the Red Data Book, these shy
buck are largely confined to evergreen thicket.
At the shoulder, adult males are almost as tall as a
standard 30cm ruler. They feed on fallen leaves,
flowers, fruit and young shoots.

5. Listen for the bark of Cape Fur seals.

Hundreds of seals gather on the rocks between
anonkoelgat and Grasnek. Adult bulls can be 2.1m
long and weigh up to 350kg. Competition between
fishermen and seals for fish has posed difficult
challenges for South African conservationists: how
can their different needs be reconciled? Seal
harvesting has been suspended since 1990.

6. Keep your eyes skinned for dolphins and wales.

Two species of inshore dolphin (humpback and
bottlenose) can often be seen from the Robberg
Peninsula. Between May and November, Southern
right whales come here from the Antarctic region to
calve and mate. Humpbac whales – another
Antarctic species - also visit these waters. Bryde’s
whales are year around residents. Plettenberg Bay
was previously one of 16 shore - based whaling
stations on the South African coast. South Africa
outlawed all whaling in its waters by 1980.

7. Montane fynbos adapted to harsh coastal conditions.
Plants here are adapted to “pruning” by wind –
driven salt spray, shallow soils and a steep, well –
drained slope.

8. Look out for Southern Ocean seabirds.

In winter, particUlarly dUring storms, sea birds that
breed on Sub – Antarctic islands such as Marion
Island may be spotted from Robberg.
Recorded sightings include shy albatross,
broadbilled prion and Sub - Antarctic skua. White
chinned petrel and sooty shearwater can be
expected throughout the year.

9. Point Shack.

A recently renovated stone hut that has been a
popular fishing spot since the 1940’s. It is now
available for overnight fishing and offers basic
facilities.

10. Cape Seal Lighthouse

At 146m above sea level, this is the highest
navigational light on the South African coast. Its
solar - powered rotating beam has a range of about
27km. Built in 1950.

11. T8e Rocky shore: life in a spin cycle.
The rocky intertidal Zone is divided into five distinct
vertical Zones. Each is occupied by plants and
animals with differing abilities to withstand exposure
to air and the heating and drying effects of the sun.
Periwinkles occupy the highest Zone, which is
wetted by the sea at high spring tide only. Moving
seawards, the other tidal levels are marked by the
presence of barnacles, mussels, limpets and
red bait respectively. Seaweeds are common below
the neap highwater mark. Best explored during a
low spring tide.

12. Danger!

Do not take any shortcuts, especially below the
Path. Keep strictly to the trail.

13. Candelabra flowers

These bulbs produce spectacular crimson flowers
between February and April.

14. Feeding Plettenberg Bay with sand

The Witsand sand dune is one of seven climbing -
falling dunes on the Cape coast.
The island traps sand driven ashore from the North
- westerly wind and currents. Dry sand is then
blown upwards for about 80m before sliding into Plettenberg Bay. Alien plants and other pioneer species threaten to “throttle” this sensitive, disturbed system.

15 Reefs: Home to the sex - changing roman.

The submerged rocks surrounding the island offer food and shelter to reef fish. Most of them are slow – growing, long - life species that take several years to reach sexual maturity. Some, like the Roman,
change sex as they develop. Romans start life as females. They become males when large enough to compete for their own harems. Many females can lose a breeding opportunity if “their” male is caught. Territorial reef fish that reverse their sexes are
therefore very vulnerable in heavily - fished areas.

16. Seagull nursery.

The breeding success of kelp gulls has improved greatly since boardwalks were laid to rehabilitate
disturbed areas and keep humans out of their nesting area.

17. Beware! Rip current.

A strong, seaward - moving current caused when waves are parallel to shore. This is very dangerous
for swimmers.

The sandy inter - tidal Zone: nature’s incredible cleansing service.

Because of the moving sand, plants are unable to take root on sandy beaches. This means that grazers (plant feeders) are absent. This is why all other beach animals have to rely on imported food to survive. Animals feed either by filtering sea water for plankton and organic particles (sand mussels),
scavenging (plough snails) or hunting (the three spot swimming crab). Microscopic organisms living in wet sand also eat and recycle organic material in surf.

R O B B E R G

Fishing spots

One can get with a vehicle to the parking area and
from this point everybody walks (hurts).

Warning: If you are planning to go fishing at The
Point, a fair level of fitness is required.

The distance from the car park area to the Point is
Approximately 4.2km and some parts of the walk a
fairly steep. The way to The Point is not the difficult
part, the way back from there is.
Take lots of drinking water with you, as the only
drinking water can be found at the Fountain and
only if you know where exactly to look for it. Day
fishing at the Point or Die Eiland, the sun and the
“magic” of the sea water spraying on you, very often
may result in dehydration. I have seen above
average fit individuals to get “wooden” legs on the
way back from the Point, after a day fishing.

Well known deep water spots at Robberg are:

- Kanonkoeelsgat;
- The Point;
- Die Eiland

and these spots have produced catches of:

- Garrick;
- Yellowtail;
- White musselcracker;
- Kob;

in the past.

Very often you will know that the garrick is around, only after you walk to The Point and find more than 10-12 local fishermen stuck in the early hours of the morning at strategic points along the ledges, all using live bait (karanteen) and catching garrick. You may use a plug and may be successful, but my advice is to observe, exactly what the local experts are doing and replicate.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Target species: Garrick



South African record: 32.2kg

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Lichia amia (Smith No. 210.33)
COMMON NAMES: Garrick, leervis

DISTRIBUTION OF SPECIES: From the Mediterranean Sea (including Portugal), along the west African coast (especially Mauritania), to the south and east coasts of southern Africa (Smith and eemstra 1986)H
DISTRIBUTION OF STOCK: From Cape Point to Cape Vidal (van der Elst et al. 1993)
HABITAT ADULTS: Found in nearshore surface waters, varying from the surf zone to a depth of 50m (van der Elst 1988, Smith and Heemstra 1986) UVENILES: Common in SEC and SWC estuaries and coastal J shallows (van der Elst et al. 1993)

MIGRATION: Annually, during winter, adults migrate to KZN waters they return to Cape waters (van der Elst 1988)

FISHERY: Highly sought after as a recreational trophy fish by shore anglers, skiboat anglers and spearfishers, especially during the short season in KZN, but makes up a relatively small percentage of the total catch of these sectors (van der Elst et al. 1993)
CURRENT REGULATIONS
AG LIMIT: 5 person day
RESEARCH PRIORITIES
CATEGORY: Recreational List -1-1
B
MINIMUM SIZE: 70cmTL
CLOSED SEASON: None EFFECTIVE MARINE RESERVES: Probably none due to migratory behaviour OTHER REGULATIONS: No sale FREQUENCY OF ATTAINING DBL: Unknown

MANAGEMENT CONSIDERATIONS
Garrick is a prime recreational angling species and trophy fish that should be managed to attain a large size and not a large tonnage of landings. Although it appears as if the stock status of garrick is currently sound, a review of these findings and calculation of biological reference points is needed.
Estuarine protected areas in the SEC and SWC, which provide important nursery areas for garrick,should be established.

Garrick is one of the finest game fish in South African waters. They feed mostly on karanteen, shad, makarel, mullet and they are not known to take dead bait. During the sardine run, garrick may be caught on sardine fillet or whole sardine. Garrick also may be caught on plugs.


With the invention of the none return sliding clip, which allows them to reach with a cast fairly deep, many anglers are targeting garrick with a live bait, which they slide on the line until it reaches the ring attached above the sinker. The use of wire traces, when fishing for garrick is not recommended. Many anglers believe, that the garrick can sense the wire trace and leave the bait.

The garrick has an extremely distinctive way of picking up bait. When he picks the live bait one can fill 2 or 3 sharp tags, before it start moving away with the bait. If you strike during the time when the garrick start moving away with you bait, the chances are that you will loose the fish. The reason for this is that the garrick once it picks the live bait, descales the bait fish and then will only swallow the bait. If you strike too early, you will bring back only your descaled live bait. Many anglers believe that a count to 21 is necessary before you strike. I had a success on a count to 12 and I believe that that is sufficient for me. Some times after the first run the garrick will drop the bait and stop, only once its start running with the bait again, then one can strike. Heavy tackle is required for the successful capture of garrick, as they are strong fighters.

One of the most beautiful spots for garrick in South Africa, when the garrick are around: