Multifilament Line of Braid:
This type of line is made up of a type of micro-polyethylene Dyneema and Spectra Fiber, an extremely thin fiber for its super strength. These fiber strands measured in weight are 10 times stronger than steel fibers. Multifilament (Braid) may be used on both types fishing reels, multiplier or fixed spool reels. Due to its thin diameter it is ideal for use as a backing line on multiplier reels. Many anglers prefer to fill their multiplier reels with Multifilament line (Braid) and only use about 160m of Co-Polymer Monofilament as a “top shot”, for the following reasons:
· The braid allows for much bigger capacity of line to be fitted on the multiplier reel, due to its thin diameter and without compromising in strength;
· The braid remains compact on the multiplier spool at all time and does not require such a frequent change as it does not absorb water and it is UV ray resistant;
· The disadvantage of casting with braid, if not careful, is that it can severely cut you finger - this is counteracted by adding the “top shot” of Co –Polymer Monofilament line, which is not so expensive and can be replaced (only approximately 160m) often, in this way the use of the extremely expensive Braid (some times quadruple the cost of monofilament) can be relatively justified;
Tipical sample of a Spectra Fiber super line is PowerPro and due to its popularity we will focus on Using PowerPro:
Unlike monofilament, PowerPro will not stretch on the reel and cling to the barrel. This can result in line sliding around the barrel, which can seem like a problem with your drag mechanism. Rest assured, your equipment is fine. To avoid slippage, attach PowerPro to your spool using one of these methods:
- If your reel has a hole or knob on the barrel, use it.
- Leave at least 5 to 10 yards of monofilament on the reel (enough to cover the bottom of the spool) before attaching PowerPro with a Uni to Uni splice.
- Put a piece of compressible tape on the barrel before attaching PowerPro.
Uni Knot - For tying terminal tackle-stronger knot
- Pass the line through the eye of your tackle at least twice, leaving 12" for your knot.
- Loop the tag end around the standing line, then pass the tag end through your loop 8 to 10 more times.
- Pull the tag end to tighten the knot, making sure the 8-10 wraps snug down neatly.
- Pull the standing line to jam the knot against your tackle eye, then trim the tag end.
Uni to Uni Splice Knot - For tying PowerPro to mono of similar diameter
- Lay PowerPro and monofilament parallel, with 12" to 18" tag ends facing opposite directions.
- Loop the tag end of the mono around both lines, then pass the tag end through your loop 5 to 6 more times. Pull the tag end through your loop 5 to 6 more times. Pull the tag end to tighten the knot, making sure the wraps snug down neatly.
- Repeat step #2 using the PowerPro tag end, but use 8 to 10 wraps.
- Pull on the standing lines to jam the two knots together tightly.
- Trim the PowerPro tag end about 1/8" past the knot. Trim the mono tag end as close to the knot as possible.
Reverse Knot - For tying PowerPro to mono of larger diameter - easy knot
- Double your PowerPro, leaving a 1/2" loop at the end. Wrap the PowerPro around the mono 10 to 12 times, leaving your loop open and opposite the mono tag end.
- Pass the mono tag end through the PowerPro loop.
- Pull on both lines to tighten the knot, jamming the wraps together.
- Tie a Lock.
Palomar Knot - For tying terminal tackle - easy knot
- Make a 10" loop in the line, then pass it through the eye of your tackle
- If the eye is big enough, pass the loop through a second time.
- Tie a simple overhand knot, but don't pull it tight.
- Pass your tackle through the loop.
- Pull on your standing line to tighten the knot, then trim the tag end
Albright Knot - For tying PowerPro to mono of larger diameter - stronger knot
- Make a loop in the mono, and hold it with your left hand. Double 30" of PowerPro to create a 15" two-strand section. Pass this through the mono loop.
- Wrap the PowerPro loosely around the fingertip of the hand you're using to hold the mono, then wrap the PowerPro around itself and the mono 20 to 25 times. Work toward the end of the loop, keeping your wraps tight and snug.
- Run the PowerPro back through the mono loop so it exits on the same side it entered.
- Wet the PowerPro, and tug on the standing line and tag end to jam your wraps tightly together, moving them toward the end of the loop.
- Pull both standing lines to tighten the knot, then use soft-jawed pliers or a gloved hand to pull the knot tighter. Pull both standing lines at once to make sure the knot is secure.
Lock Knot - To finish the Albright or Reverse Albright
- Loop the PowerPro tag end around the standing PowerPro, then pass the tag end through this loop three times.
- Pull the tag end to tighten the wraps, then trim your tag ends.
No-Name Knot - For tying PowerPro to Fluorocarbon/Mono shock leader
- Make figure 8 loop on leader
- Insert PowerPro into figure 9 loop
- Wrap PowerPro 12 times and 12 times back to the other direction
- Insert PowerPro back into figure 8 loop
- Cinch leader tightly
- Pull main PowerPro slowly then pull PowerPro tag-end slowly and pull both main and tag-end of PowerPro tightly
- Make a half hitch twice on tag-end
- Cut the tag-end of PowerPro and leader
And my favorite and the most trusted knot is............
Bimini twists knots on both the mono and braid and attached together by cat paw knot.
My favorite braid is Fire Line Micro fused DYNEEMA, remember the word dyneema.
For the fire line you don't really need to use "fancy" knots, your best 2 or 3 knots that you know how to tie to perfection will do the job. With this type of line I don't even use any mono top shot, attach your hook and sinker strait to the fire line and cast.
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